An old fortified hilltop city. A lot of the wall still stands, and has been incorporated into city parks, as has the 17th century citadel in the center of town. This is the only place that I saw joggers in Spain, but then young men in Pamplona would have a need to stay in shape. The cramped medieval quarter is tucked up in the north-east corner, behind the bullring. The rest of the city is spread open, with fountains, squares and public art, with both modern skyscrapers and mudejar apartment buildings.
The second language here is Basque. It's totally unrelated to any other language in the world. It's thought that the Basques were the first settlers in Europe, and that later waves of Celts, Visigoths, etc. washed over them, hemming them in until they had shrunk to a few provinces in the mountains of Spain and of France. Even Basques will speak Castilian to foreigners (not that it helps me much). I don't hear the Castilian lithp, though. Instead I hear the lishp that I learned for Galician and Catalan.
